Materials & Equipment:
Gather together all necessary equipment before you start.
Wicks: The proper wick for a candle depends on the size and type of mold
you're using. Square-braided wicks are for block candles made using metal
molds. Wire-core wicks are for container candles (the wire core keeps the
wick from falling into the melted wax) and are usually anchored by a wick
tab. Be sure to avoid wire-core wicks that contain lead, which emits toxic fumes.
Wick holder: For block candles, a wick holder also is essential for centering
and stabilizing the wick as you pour the wax into the mold and while the wax
hardens to form the candle. Wick holders can be as simple as a short length
of dowel or wire that reaches across the top of the mold or as sophisticated
as a metal holder made especially for candle making.
Mold sealant: This tacky wax covers the hole after you thread the wick through
the bottom of a mold.
Wax: The two main types of wax are beeswax and paraffin wax. Beeswax is golden
and has a sweet fragrance. Paraffin wax is a by-product of the petroleum industry
and releases from molds more easily than beeswax. It is white and somewhat opaque.
Although it burns without odor, it also burns more quickly than beeswax.
Melting pot: A pot for melting wax is one of the most important pieces of equipment.
There are specific containers made for melting wax on a stovetop, but an old coffeepot
(preferably one without seams) with a handle and pouring spout or a double boiler will
work just as well.
Hot pads: Always use hot pads when handling the warm melting pot and molds.
Thermometer: A candle or candy thermometer to monitor the temperature of the
wax also is essential (it should have a clip for securing it to the side of
the melting container). Without an accurate thermometer, you run the risk of
heating the wax to the flash point -- the temperature at which the wax will
catch on fire -- a very dangerous situation.
Molds: Metal candle molds are available in various sizes and shapes and
usually come with a screw for attaching the wick through the bottom hole, so
you'll need a screwdriver. Other containers such as old milk cartons and
frozen orange-juice containers also make good molds for candles.
Mold-release spray or powder: These products make it easy to remove the
candle from the mold. The powders are mixed in with the melted wax; the
spray is applied to the inside of the mold before the wax is poured.
Other additives: Stearic acid increases the hardness of the wax. Luster
crystals extend the burning time of a candle and improve the overall
appearance. Add color and scent by shaving small bits from special blocks
and putting them into the melted wax. To add decorative elements like shells,
whole color chips or colored glass, you'll need cardboard to make a sleeve.
Cool-water bath tools: To speed the wax-hardening process, use an old pot
that's deep enough to accommodate the height of your mold. A mold holder is
essential for safely moving a mold filled with hot wax into a cool-water
bath; mold weights that wrap around the bottom of the mold will keep it
stable in the bath.
Candle-wax remover: Clean molds, tools, and other accessories easily during
and after candle-making. Keep molds clean and dust-free so future candles
will remain relatively pure.
Step 1: Cut a length of wick a little longer than the height of your mold.
Tie one end of the wick onto a dowel or insert it in a wick holder, and
thread the wick through the mold and out the hole at the bottom. Insert a
screw in the hole, and wrap the wick counterclockwise around the screw.
Tighten the screw, and trim the wick end to 1 inch long.
Step 2: Place a small amount of mold sealant over the screw, and spread it
out with your fingers. Be sure to cover the entire screw and wick, making a tight seal.
Step 3: In the melting pot, heat the wax to the pouring temperature
specified on the wax package. Add any desired additives at the temperature
specified in the manufacturer's directions. After the wax has melted, add
shavings of color and scent, if desired. Remember that a small amount of
shaved color and scent goes a long way. Place a mold holder on the mold, and
wrap a mold weight around the bottom. Place the mold and holder in an old pan
to catch any excess wax. After the wax has reached the correct pouring temperature,
hold the mold at a slight angle and fill it with melted wax to the desired
height. Don't fill it to the top -- leave at least 1 inch unfilled so you
don't have to worry about the wax overflowing when you place the mold in a
cool-water bath. Reserve a small amount of wax for later use. Firmly tap the
sides of the mold to eliminate air bubbles.
Finishing the Block Candle:
Step 4: After pouring the wax into the mold, you may just let the mold sit
to harden the candle, or you can speed the process by using a cool-water bath.
To use a cool-water bath, fill a pot with cool water to a height a few inches
shorter than your mold. Hold the mold holder by the handle, and lower the mold
into the water.
Step 5: As the wax hardens, you'll notice that the center of the mold will
begin to sink, forming a well. This is normal; you can fill the well with
leftover wax. Reheat the reserved wax, and pour just enough of it into the
center of the mold to fill only the well (be careful not to overfill). Let
the wax harden, and refill any other wells that appear.
Step 6: After the candle has completely hardened, remove it from the mold.
Remove the mold sealer and screw from the bottom of the mold, and release
the wick from the dowel or wick holder. Place the mold with the top down on a
small block of scrap wood. Lifting the mold and the block together, release
the candle from the mold by firmly tapping the pieces onto a hard countertop
or table. The block of wood will prevent the mold from denting and will
protect your work surface. To finish, lightly scrape off any imperfections
using a paring knife